Home › Greeley, CO
Rubber Roof Repair Kings provides rubber roof repair, EPDM seam and patch repair, and flat roof leak repair services in the Greeley, CO area for both residential and commercial properties. Contact us now for a free estimate.
Rubber roof repair in Greeley, CO costs anywhere from $210 to $1,270 on average for a typical leak, puncture, seam, or flashing repair on an EPDM roof. The price depends on how much membrane is damaged, how many leaks there are, roof height and access, whether gravel or pavers have to be moved, and whether wet insulation underneath needs replacing. Send us photos for pricing.
Yes, we take rubber roof repair requests across Greeley and the rest of the Greeley, CO area. Labor and material costs here run about 6% above the national average, and the price range above already reflects that.
Yes, we repair EPDM rubber roofs on houses, garages, porches, additions, apartment buildings, and commercial flat roofs. Tell us the property type and roughly how big the roof is.
Yes, we cover the Greeley, CO area. Send us the property address and we'll confirm.
Yes, in most cases, if the leak is at a seam, a flashing, or a single puncture and the rest of the rubber is still flexible. We usually suggest replacement when it leaks in several places or has shrunk across the roof.
Most leaks we find start at seams and at the flashing around pipes, vents, and walls. Punctures, shrinkage at the edges, and standing water come next.
Yes, often, if the rubber is still flexible and leaks in only a few spots. Most rubber roofs last 20 to 30 years, so we'll weigh the repair price against a new roof.
Yes, we can usually tarp it or put on a temporary patch, then make the permanent repair once the roof is dry.
We can usually inspect within a few days, sooner for an active leak.
We need the address, where the water shows up inside, roughly how big and old the roof is, and photos if you can take them safely. Tell us if it's still under warranty.
No, not if we can get onto the roof from outside. We may need inside access once to see the ceiling or to check a water test.
Yes, but the owner or landlord needs to approve the work first.
Yes, we can coordinate access and approval with an HOA, condo board, or property manager. Shared flat roofs usually need the association's sign-off first.
No, patching and seam repairs usually don't need one. Replacing the membrane or the decking often does, and your local building department makes that call.
Yes, we confirm the price before we start. If we cut into a spot and find wet insulation or soft decking, we show you and price that before going further.
Yes, often, when the damage is sudden, like a storm or a falling limb. Leaks from age or wear usually aren't covered. We can give you photos and an invoice for the claim.
We finish most patch, seam, and flashing repairs in a few hours. Jobs that need wet insulation cut out and replaced take longer.
Yes, we clean and prime the seam, lay 6 inch EPDM cover tape over the joint, roll it down, and seal the edges with lap sealant.
Yes, we clean and prime the area, then put down an EPDM patch that runs at least 3 inches past the damage on every side, with rounded corners and sealed edges.
Yes, we replace the pipe boot or wrap the opening with uncured EPDM flashing, which stretches to fit odd shapes, then seal the edges.
We start at the seams and flashing upslope of the stain, because water runs under the membrane and can come out several feet, sometimes 10 feet or more, from where it gets in. If that doesn't turn it up, we water test the suspect spots.
Yes, we clear the drains first, and for low spots we can add tapered insulation or a cricket. Water still standing 48 hours after rain counts as ponding, and repairs in that spot tend to fail sooner.
No, asphalt roof cement and tar break down EPDM, and most silicone won't bond to it. Rubber needs EPDM primer, tape or patches, and lap sealant.
Yes, a small puncture can be patched with an EPDM patch kit, primer, and a roller. Seams, flashing, wet insulation, and leaks you can't find are better left to us.
Years, if the rubber was cleaned, primed, and taped properly and the membrane around it is sound. Most peeling patches we see went on dirty rubber, skipped the primer, or used the wrong product.
Yes, as long as the surface is dry and at least 40°F, since most EPDM primers and seam tapes won't bond below that. In a cold snap we may put on a temporary fix and finish on a warmer day.
Yes, if the old roof is dry, sound, and only one layer. Building codes generally don't allow a recover over a water-soaked roof or over two or more existing layers, so then we tear off to the deck.
Yes, it can if the repair isn't done the way the manufacturer requires. If your roof is still under warranty, check with the installer or manufacturer first and send us the paperwork.
Yes, we reflash the corners and wall edges where the rubber has pulled tight or lifted. If shrinkage runs across the whole roof, we usually recommend recoating or replacing it.
Yes, we cut the blister open, dry out what's underneath, and patch over it. Bubbles across a large part of the roof usually point to a bigger problem.
Yes, curbs under AC units and exhaust fans are a common leak spot. We reflash the curb and check the rubber around it for punctures from service traffic.
Yes, we clear clogged drains and scuppers and reseal the flashing around them. A blocked drain is one of the most common reasons water sits on a flat roof.
Yes, we repair rubber roofs on garages, porches, sheds, dormers, and additions. Tell us roughly how big the roof is and whether it's reachable with a ladder.
Yes, we move the stone or pavers off the damaged area, repair the membrane, and put them back. Let us know they're there, since it adds time.
Yes, we patch punctures and tears from hail, flying debris, and fallen branches, and check the seams and flashing nearby. If a branch broke the deck, we rebuild that section first.
Yes, we cut out the wet insulation or fiberboard, replace it, and patch over the new board. If a large area is soaked, replacing that section usually makes more sense.
Yes, but tar and asphalt roof cement break down EPDM, so we take off the old patch and the damaged rubber under it and patch with new EPDM.
Put buckets under the drips, move belongings away, and take photos for your insurer. Keep water away from light fixtures and outlets, and stay off the roof in the rain.
Yes, for a quick look in soft-soled shoes, but stay off it when it's wet or icy. Dropped tools and loose gravel can puncture the rubber.
Yes, if it gets heavy, but use only a plastic shovel and leave an inch or two of snow on the membrane so you don't cut the rubber. If it's icy, stay off and call us.
No, the rubber has to be dry for tape and patches to bond.
Yes, in most cases "rubber roof" means EPDM, a synthetic rubber sheet that's usually black. White roofs with heat-welded seams are usually TPO or PVC.
We use EPDM membrane cleaner, primer, pressure-sensitive seam tape and patches, uncured flashing for odd shapes, a seam roller, and lap sealant on every edge.
Yes, if the membrane is still sound but worn or chalky. We clean it and fix the seams and leaks first, then roll on a liquid EPDM coating.
Twice a year, in spring and fall, and after any big storm.